Let's talk about watches – Quartz and mechanical movements

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We wear them every day, often selected and chosen based on their aesthetic appeal. However, behind this appearance lie substantial differences that are constantly evolving, accompanying our ongoing evolution.

Technological innovation has "gifted" us movements for watches called "quartz," which are distinguished by precision, lightness, reduced maintenance, and lower costs. Compared to mechanical watches, which, while accepting higher costs and maintenance, offer the pleasure of having a mechanism with a handcrafted charm.

Quartz Watches

But, essentially, how is a quartz watch made and how does it work?

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Obviously the “showpiece” is the oscillator, the quartz crystal enclosed in a metal cylinder called a “barrel”.

Thanks to its piezoelectric properties, when the crystal is powered by electricity from the battery, it emits extremely high-frequency vibrations, typically 32,768 oscillations per second, expressed in hertz: 32,768 Hz (32.7 kHz).

An integrated circuit controls these pulses, which, passing through a coil, are directed to a stepper motor. Rotating at precise and constant intervals, it transmits motion to the gears connected to the hands and any other accessories, such as the date display, etc.

The design, oscillator stability, circuit programming, and construction quality are all key factors in determining the movement's performance.

Some movements operate at much higher frequencies, ranging from 32 kHz to 262 kHz. These are called high-precision movements, and their second hand moves much smoother and without jerkiness.

Bulova offers an example of a High Precision movement with the Lunar Pilot, a replica of the original version designed for the first human journey to the Moon, updated with this exclusive high-performance movement.

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Mechanical watches

In mechanical watches, the energy supplied to the entire movement is stored by the spiral mainspring enclosed within a component called the barrel due to its cylindrical shape.

This is a crucial element because, in addition to determining the operating time, it also affects the precision of the timepiece, as changes in elasticity and friction that occur during its operation can lead to inconsistent performance.

The other fundamental mechanical element, the true heart of the watch, is the escapement, which transforms the energy of the spring into an oscillatory motion via the balance wheel and the cogwheel known as the "escapement."

A standard modern movement with good precision has an oscillatory motion of 28,800 vibrations per hour, corresponding to 4 Hz (more details can be found in "Let's Talk About Watches: Hertz, These Mysterious Things").

Given that the higher the frequency (Hz), the greater the precision of a watch, comparing the 4 Hz of a mechanical watch with the 32,768 Hz of a quartz watch, we realize that it is not possible to expect identical precision and performance.

On average, a standard mechanical movement lasts 36 hours, 48 at most.

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Some movements have a power reserve of 80 hours. Tissot offers an example with the Powermatic 80.

To achieve this result, it was necessary to reduce the vibration rate from 28,800 A/h to 21,600 A/h, slightly compromising the smoothness of the seconds hand and some of its precision. However, this is restored by other innovations that reduce component friction and improve anti-magnetism.

The most innovative component is the Nivachron balance spring, featuring a titanium-based alloy, technologically more advanced than traditional balance springs made of steel/nickel alloy.

This balance spring, significantly improving resistance to shocks, magnetic fields, and temperature variations, has significantly restored the precision and stability lost with the reduction in vibration rate, allowing for a lifespan of 80 hours instead of the standard 36/48.

Now all that remains is to choose: quartz or mechanical?

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